(l) For a service rated 100 through 400 A, the service conductors supplying the entire load associated with a one-family dwelling. For one-family dwellings and the individual dwe11ing units of two-family and multifamily dwellings, service and feeder conductors supplied by a single-phase, 120/240-volt system shall be permitted be sized in accordance with 31 0.15(B)(7)(l) through (4). 65A and 120A breakers aren't made, so round up to the next available size (70A and 125A). We don't get the 310.15(B)(7) derate*, so 120A takes #1/0 wire, 100A takes #1 wire and 65A takes #4 wire. All those breaker sizes are affordable compared to 200A. 65A would be plenty 100A would be overkill 120A would be gross overkill. Have the new panel be for "anything/everything else". So, this suggests a simpler and cheaper plan: Leave the large 240V loads in the original 200A panel. (8 amps 120V).īut don't take my word on it, do a Load Calculation on the non-240V loads. Power companies' rule of thumb is the average house draws 1KW on average - really. Not at all, they're hardly ever loaded anywhere near that.
If that makes no sense, it's because of the common belief that circuits each draw what the breaker handle says. The fact is, in any random home, if you subtract the large 240V loads - range, dryer, water heater, heat pump, hot tub and EV charger - everything else will fit very comfortably on a 65A panel.
#200 AMP BREAKER PANEL FULL#
You don't need to bring over the full 200A. Since your service wires are allowed 4/0, feeder off that service need not be bigger than that, even if it supplies less than the entire dwelling. And then, 310.15(B)(7)(3), which says feeder never needs to be bigger than the service wires themselves, because that would be stupid. The reason for this is 310.15(B)(7)(1), which allows 4/0 for 200A service wiring due to a favorable derate. Panels don't need main breakers, though if they're in an outbuilding they need a disconnect switch, and choosing a main breaker panel is a cheap way to get a disconnect. a meter-main), you could simply "tee" off it with dual 4/0 to two main-lug panels. The 200A breaker alread present in the panel will suffice, and so you can use a subfeed lug kit as DrSparks advises.įor that matter, if the main breaker were out at the meter (e.g. Yes, and you don't even need another 200A breaker. Is feeding a 200A sub from a 200A main legit? Main Load Center is a Homeline HOMC30UC.Is 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 Aluminum SE-R sufficient? I've seen answers for similar scenarios suggesting 250 kcmil, but I don't know why.Can the 200-amp main feed the 200-amp subpanel and stay up to code? An electrician told me it can't.It's about 20' as a straight shot, but 40' if I go up into the attic and back down, because the main panel is on the opposite side of the garage as the basement wall.
#200 AMP BREAKER PANEL INSTALL#
Install 200-amp main breaker load center in the basement.
#200 AMP BREAKER PANEL UPGRADE#
It's not ideal to have all the breakers in the master bedroom, we plan to replace the older wiring over time, and I'd love to upgrade to a plug-on neutral load center, so I'd like to install a new load center in the basement as a subpanel. We anticipate a number of projects on this house over the next couple of years, including converting the garage to a master suite. The 200-amp main panel is in the garage, on the same wall as the meter. It looks like it was upgraded at some point to 200-amp service, with a new load center, but most of the old 2-conductor (no ground) wiring remains.
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